trolling lures
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trolling lures
HI I would like to know what is a good way of adding weight to get a lure to troll deeper expecially lures like line through trout as i think these lures could be deadly if trolled deeper any info appreciated.
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Re: trolling lures
A 2oz lead as far up the line as your rod allows will get you down. How deep are you thinking. After a certain depth a rigger is what you need.
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Re: trolling lures
cheers fergie how do you attach the lead?
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Re: trolling lures
Instead of the line through baits buy the unweighted 3D type, fit a screw in jig head and run a couple of stingers from that into the baits flanks.
Try with 25g weights to start with and adjust up or down to suit your river and the water flow.
The line through baits are a little too buoyant to get down deep against the water pressure on the line. I go up to 50g dependant on flow and depths.
Try with 25g weights to start with and adjust up or down to suit your river and the water flow.
The line through baits are a little too buoyant to get down deep against the water pressure on the line. I go up to 50g dependant on flow and depths.
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Re: trolling lures
I get trolling weights made off a mate. He might sell them on Facebook or somewhere I will ask. Swivel at one end ring at the other. I will have a look at ebay for similar.
As esox said it's difficult to get a bait like a line thru really deep using weights.
As esox said it's difficult to get a bait like a line thru really deep using weights.
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Re: trolling lures
The ones I get made are more like a wye lead. I use a 13ft salmon worming rod on my side rod so have the weight around 5ft from the lure.
I use okuma swivel clips to change weights quickly.
This type of weight looks interesting.
I use okuma swivel clips to change weights quickly.
This type of weight looks interesting.
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Re: trolling lures
Dont forget the deeper you troll the more buoyant a lure becomes.
I would never rely in line thro systems if they are not self made, the Chinese production methods are not foolproof nor is their quality controls.
A Fat Rap and 1oz pear lead on a dropper caught me enough fish for me not to try anything else unless I pulled deadbaits.
I would never rely in line thro systems if they are not self made, the Chinese production methods are not foolproof nor is their quality controls.
A Fat Rap and 1oz pear lead on a dropper caught me enough fish for me not to try anything else unless I pulled deadbaits.
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Re: trolling lures
I use a bomb with a small elastic band (about 1"dia) looped through the bomb swivel and then over the main line about 15' ahead of the lure. When you reel the line up just snap the elastic band to fish bringing the lure/fish to the boat. I carry bombs from 1-6oz and use this method regularly.
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Re: trolling lures
Doesn't all this depend on what size lure ? how deep you want to troll and line thickness ?
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Re: trolling lures
andrew_nagel wrote: ↑Wed Jan 02 2019 16:09 -I use a bomb with a small elastic band (about 1"dia) looped through the bomb swivel and then over the main line about 15' ahead of the lure. When you reel the line up just snap the elastic band to fish bringing the lure/fish to the boat. I carry bombs from 1-6oz and use this method regularly.
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Re: trolling lures
martin godliman wrote: ↑Wed Jan 02 2019 17:37 -Doesn't all this depend on what size lure ? how deep you want to troll and line thickness ?
It does Martin.
As for the line thru system it's a fantastic lure but it has been covered on here loads of times CHANGE THE TRACE.,
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Re: trolling lures
Andrew using this method does the weight come through the water straight all the time.
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Re: trolling lures
That's interesting ive always used weights as streamlined as possible.
I remember rapala used to advise fishing their lures on a paternoster over a heavy bomb weight.
I remember rapala used to advise fishing their lures on a paternoster over a heavy bomb weight.
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Re: trolling lures
Fishder. How deep are you intending to fish.
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Re: trolling lures
Ive used the same system as Andrew for lures, lives and deads but always from a boat.
Never experienced a tangle and snapping off the lead isn't a problem although you might think it would be (as I did) I use 6lb mono and no swivels or clips, just a big loop on the end for if the lead needs changing. On really clear waters it was sometimes the only way to go.
A standard pear shaped lead is prefect for most applications but I have moulded trolling leads up to 2lb for use in the salt.
I use DCA moulds and modify them accordingly and find the 1-4oz pear/beach bomb covers most freshwater applications.
Never experienced a tangle and snapping off the lead isn't a problem although you might think it would be (as I did) I use 6lb mono and no swivels or clips, just a big loop on the end for if the lead needs changing. On really clear waters it was sometimes the only way to go.
A standard pear shaped lead is prefect for most applications but I have moulded trolling leads up to 2lb for use in the salt.
I use DCA moulds and modify them accordingly and find the 1-4oz pear/beach bomb covers most freshwater applications.
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- martin godliman
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Re: trolling lures
I don't mean to be obtuse but I can't quite visualise the bomb on an elastic band thing it certainly sounds like a simple method I would like when ever I've wanted to troll a pike lure below 25 feet I've used a diver and don't really like it much too awkward and clunky and trips out if it hits bottom too hard.
Typically I would use 65-ish-lb braid and might want to troll a shad, spoon or non diving lure at 40 feet is that realistic with a bomb and elastic ?....and what size bomb ?
Typically I would use 65-ish-lb braid and might want to troll a shad, spoon or non diving lure at 40 feet is that realistic with a bomb and elastic ?....and what size bomb ?
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Re: trolling lures
Here you go Martin:
These bombs are 2oz, but carry sizes 1-6oz depending on where I'm fishing. I add a small split ring to effectively increase the size of the 'swivel' eye making it easier to thread the elastic band through with cold hands. Thread it on through the split ring, then back through itself to 'loop' attach it. Then lay the line across the band and lead, stretch lure type. If it's a floater I put it closer, if it's a sinker I put in further away.
I use 50lb PP and would start off with a 4 or 5oz bomb to reach 40' running at 2.5mph. naturally, the lure being trolled can effect this. Shads have more resistance than most spoons so you do need to adjust and learn for each lure type/size. I test the running depths when all is quiet by letting a lure/lead hit bottom and note the depth. Over the years you build up a good understanding based on the lures and speeds you fish.
These bombs are 2oz, but carry sizes 1-6oz depending on where I'm fishing. I add a small split ring to effectively increase the size of the 'swivel' eye making it easier to thread the elastic band through with cold hands. Thread it on through the split ring, then back through itself to 'loop' attach it. Then lay the line across the band and lead, stretch lure type. If it's a floater I put it closer, if it's a sinker I put in further away.
I use 50lb PP and would start off with a 4 or 5oz bomb to reach 40' running at 2.5mph. naturally, the lure being trolled can effect this. Shads have more resistance than most spoons so you do need to adjust and learn for each lure type/size. I test the running depths when all is quiet by letting a lure/lead hit bottom and note the depth. Over the years you build up a good understanding based on the lures and speeds you fish.
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Last edited by andrew_nagel on Thu Jan 03 2019 11:40, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: trolling lures
Sorry for not getting back sooner the depth I would be trolling would be down to 30 ft has anyone used the snap realse clips like the ones used in planer boards cheers for the replys.
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Re: trolling lures
fishder wrote: ↑Thu Jan 03 2019 11:39 -I started out trying the snap releases. You need to attach a big split ring or link swivel to the release so that when it releases it remains attached to your line otherwise you lose the release and lead. This is a bad idea as the whole lot can slide down with a fish on and add weight that can be used to throw the lure, or bash the fish about the head. The elastic band method stays put until you snap it off. In years of using this method (and I troll a lot) I could count the number of leads I've lost on my fingers. The elastic band method is the way to go.Sorry for not getting back sooner the depth I would be trolling would be down to 30 ft has anyone used the snap realse clips like the ones used in planer boards cheers for the replys.
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Re: trolling lures
The rubber band method can be adapted (by looping multiple bands) to bottom bounce floating lures. And used to fish floating lures very slowly without them becoming surface lures.
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Re: trolling lures
andrew_nagel wrote: ↑Thu Jan 03 2019 11:31 -Thanks Andrew for taking the trouble....I think I almost understand now in principle except for the bit in red is there another way to describe it....sorry for being so fick but I want to properly understand.Here you go Martin:
These bombs are 2oz, but carry sizes 1-6oz depending on where I'm fishing. I add a small split ring to effectively increase the size of the 'swivel' eye making it easier to thread the elastic band through with cold hands. Thread it on through the split ring, then back through itself to 'loop' attach it. Then lay the line across the band and lead, stretch lure type. If it's a floater I put it closer, if it's a sinker I put in further away.
I use 50lb PP and would start off with a 4 or 5oz bomb to reach 40' running at 2.5mph. naturally, the lure being trolled can effect this. Shads have more resistance than most spoons so you do need to adjust and learn for each lure type/size. I test the running depths when all is quiet by letting a lure/lead hit bottom and note the depth. Over the years you build up a good understanding based on the lures and speeds you fish.
trolling_leads.jpg
I'll definitely be using 50lb braid in the future.
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Re: trolling lures
cheers Andrew I thought there might be a problem with the release snap clips will give the rubber band method a go simple but effective way to go thanks for the info.
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Re: trolling lures
martin godliman wrote: ↑Thu Jan 03 2019 12:18 -Don't know what happen there Martin??? Should have read... Then lay the line across the band, and stretch the band down over the line and over the point of the bomb so as to loop it on to the line. If a series of photos would help let me know.andrew_nagel wrote: ↑Thu Jan 03 2019 11:31 -Thanks Andrew for taking the trouble....I think I almost understand now in principle except for the bit in red is there another way to describe it....sorry for being so fick but I want to properly understand.Here you go Martin:
These bombs are 2oz, but carry sizes 1-6oz depending on where I'm fishing. I add a small split ring to effectively increase the size of the 'swivel' eye making it easier to thread the elastic band through with cold hands. Thread it on through the split ring, then back through itself to 'loop' attach it. Then lay the line across the band and lead, stretch lure type. If it's a floater I put it closer, if it's a sinker I put in further away.
I use 50lb PP and would start off with a 4 or 5oz bomb to reach 40' running at 2.5mph. naturally, the lure being trolled can effect this. Shads have more resistance than most spoons so you do need to adjust and learn for each lure type/size. I test the running depths when all is quiet by letting a lure/lead hit bottom and note the depth. Over the years you build up a good understanding based on the lures and speeds you fish.
trolling_leads.jpg
I'll definitely be using 50lb braid in the future.
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Re: trolling lures
fishder wrote: ↑Thu Jan 03 2019 11:39 -Yes, if you try some clips you'll want the Off- Shore OR 16 clips. Not cheep with import and everything that goes with it, work out about £7.00 per clip thought !Sorry for not getting back sooner the depth I would be trolling would be down to 30 ft has anyone used the snap realse clips like the ones used in planer boards cheers for the replys.
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Re: trolling lures
andrew_nagel wrote: ↑Thu Jan 03 2019 16:55 -Ah I think I see now Andrew that I can imagine from the description cheersmartin godliman wrote: ↑Thu Jan 03 2019 12:18 -Don't know what happen there Martin??? Should have read... Then lay the line across the band, and stretch the band down over the line and over the point of the bomb so as to loop it on to the line. If a series of photos would help let me know.andrew_nagel wrote: ↑Thu Jan 03 2019 11:31 -Thanks Andrew for taking the trouble....I think I almost understand now in principle except for the bit in red is there another way to describe it....sorry for being so fick but I want to properly understand.Here you go Martin:
These bombs are 2oz, but carry sizes 1-6oz depending on where I'm fishing. I add a small split ring to effectively increase the size of the 'swivel' eye making it easier to thread the elastic band through with cold hands. Thread it on through the split ring, then back through itself to 'loop' attach it. Then lay the line across the band and lead, stretch lure type. If it's a floater I put it closer, if it's a sinker I put in further away.
I use 50lb PP and would start off with a 4 or 5oz bomb to reach 40' running at 2.5mph. naturally, the lure being trolled can effect this. Shads have more resistance than most spoons so you do need to adjust and learn for each lure type/size. I test the running depths when all is quiet by letting a lure/lead hit bottom and note the depth. Over the years you build up a good understanding based on the lures and speeds you fish.
trolling_leads.jpg
I'll definitely be using 50lb braid in the future.
Today is the tomorrow you worried about yesterday.
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Re: trolling lures
andrew_nagel wrote: ↑Thu Jan 03 2019 11:47 -I love the snap releases because it allows me instant release of the weight as it comes to the boat, in fact I can reach out with my left hand and unclip it and drop it straight onto the floor in one movement, for me the beauty is that no slack line is given whatsoever. I’ve only ever managed to lose one clip and that was a school boy error ! I can see the band method does offer two advantages over the clip, the first is cost and therefore is only a personal one. The second is a definite advantage but only if you are after maximum running depth with your lures, with all other things equal the band would have less drag and therefore will give more depth. But for ease of “off and onable” the clip would take some beating whether playing a fish and being able to seamlessly unclip and disconnecting the weight or maybe unclipping for a quick de weeding of a bait and straight back to work as quick as possible. As with the band method likewise the distance between clip and lure can be whatever you choose, but for me the above works in every way better with a clip with the only downside is that I do loose some running depth when that really matters.fishder wrote: ↑Thu Jan 03 2019 11:39 -I started out trying the snap releases. You need to attach a big split ring or link swivel to the release so that when it releases it remains attached to your line otherwise you lose the release and lead. This is a bad idea as the whole lot can slide down with a fish on and add weight that can be used to throw the lure, or bash the fish about the head. The elastic band method stays put until you snap it off. In years of using this method (and I troll a lot) I could count the number of leads I've lost on my fingers. The elastic band method is the way to go.Sorry for not getting back sooner the depth I would be trolling would be down to 30 ft has anyone used the snap realse clips like the ones used in planer boards cheers for the replys.
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Re: trolling lures
Steve Le maitre wrote: ↑Thu Jan 03 2019 22:19 -Each as easy as each other I find Steve. Bands I find more dependable and less of a profile as you say.andrew_nagel wrote: ↑Thu Jan 03 2019 11:47 -I love the snap releases because it allows me instant release of the weight as it comes to the boat, in fact I can reach out with my left hand and unclip it and drop it straight onto the floor in one movement, for me the beauty is that no slack line is given whatsoever. I’ve only ever managed to lose one clip and that was a school boy error ! I can see the band method does offer two advantages over the clip, the first is cost and therefore is only a personal one. The second is a definite advantage but only if you are after maximum running depth with your lures, with all other things equal the band would have less drag and therefore will give more depth. But for ease of “off and onable” the clip would take some beating whether playing a fish and being able to seamlessly unclip and disconnecting the weight or maybe unclipping for a quick de weeding of a bait and straight back to work as quick as possible. As with the band method likewise the distance between clip and lure can be whatever you choose, but for me the above works in every way better with a clip with the only downside is that I do loose some running depth when that really matters.fishder wrote: ↑Thu Jan 03 2019 11:39 -I started out trying the snap releases. You need to attach a big split ring or link swivel to the release so that when it releases it remains attached to your line otherwise you lose the release and lead. This is a bad idea as the whole lot can slide down with a fish on and add weight that can be used to throw the lure, or bash the fish about the head. The elastic band method stays put until you snap it off. In years of using this method (and I troll a lot) I could count the number of leads I've lost on my fingers. The elastic band method is the way to go.Sorry for not getting back sooner the depth I would be trolling would be down to 30 ft has anyone used the snap realse clips like the ones used in planer boards cheers for the replys.
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Re: trolling lures
andrew_nagel wrote: ↑Thu Jan 03 2019 11:31 -Sorry Andrew, are you saying you have a patanoster from the band to the main line. I do someting similar but attach the bomb to a swivel, which in comparison is clumsy but its only in recent times when shads have taken over the world that I even find it necassary as I normally match the lure to the running depth I need, but I can see the huge advantage in what you are doing, I just don't see how you are connecting it to the main lineHere you go Martin:
These bombs are 2oz, but carry sizes 1-6oz depending on where I'm fishing. I add a small split ring to effectively increase the size of the 'swivel' eye making it easier to thread the elastic band through with cold hands. Thread it on through the split ring, then back through itself to 'loop' attach it. Then lay the line across the band and lead, stretch lure type. If it's a floater I put it closer, if it's a sinker I put in further away.
I use 50lb PP and would start off with a 4 or 5oz bomb to reach 40' running at 2.5mph. naturally, the lure being trolled can effect this. Shads have more resistance than most spoons so you do need to adjust and learn for each lure type/size. I test the running depths when all is quiet by letting a lure/lead hit bottom and note the depth. Over the years you build up a good understanding based on the lures and speeds you fish.
trolling_leads.jpg
Thanks for the insight
Martin