Weighting lures

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tomgrim
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Weighting lures

Post by tomgrim »

I have a squirrely burt that I'm wanting to add weight to. Where do you get the lead strips from that you can use. Do DIY shops have this available. I know I can get some off ebay but I'll have to wait for a week or 2 for that
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Re: Weighting lures

Post by paintman »

Local tackle shop worth a try.
I have some self-adhesive that I bought for flytying from one of the trout reservoir shops

Local scrap yard will probably sell you a small bit of lead sheet.
If it's too thick then hammer it out thinner.
Perhaps attach with hot glue so you can remove it again easily by softening with a hot air gun or hair dryer?
Or double sided sticky tape?
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Re: Weighting lures

Post by bio-haul »

Maybe.... self-adhesive lead strip used for window decoration?
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Re: Weighting lures

Post by IanRimmer »

Pet/aquarium shop have lead strip to weigh plants down.
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Re: Weighting lures

Post by Pikey3204 »

Another option is to drill a small hole about 10mm behind the front hook hanger. Add small lead shot as required and plug the hole with a large ledger stop. Epoxy seal the hole and ledger stop water tight once you’ve added / tweaked the required weight.
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Re: Weighting lures

Post by brendan taaffe »

If you know anyone involved in window or door manufacturing they will have access to strips of lead that is used in the French window style. It's got peel off tape that makes it handy for sticking to lures.
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Steve Dennington
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Re: Weighting lures

Post by Steve Dennington »

Pikey3204 wrote: Sat Dec 02 2023 22:50 -
Another option is to drill a small hole about 10mm behind the front hook hanger. Add small lead shot as required and plug the hole with a large ledger stop. Epoxy seal the hole and ledger stop water tight once you’ve added / tweaked the required weight.
That's how I've done some of mine. I drilled a 3mm hole, filled with No.8 shot as required and sealed the hole with a bit of plastic Avon float stem that had the right taper, just rammed in and a few mm left proud so the bung could be removed with pliers/forceps for any future adjustments. With only a friction fit I haven't had any leakage issues.
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Re: Weighting lures

Post by Mike J »

tomgrim wrote: Sat Dec 02 2023 12:30 -
I have a squirrely burt that I'm wanting to add weight to. Where do you get the lead strips from that you can use. Do DIY shops have this available. I know I can get some off ebay but I'll have to wait for a week or 2 for that

I dislike rattles and open up Burts to remove the the lead shot inside.
To rebalance some lures I used roofers lead sheet and attached the first with Araldite (pike ripped it off) then a commercial two part epoxy putty made by Fischer, its soft and easy to mould together and shape around the lumps of lead sheet I stuck to the bellies. Brilliant stuff and lasts forever, highly recommended :thumbs:

To achieve the correct position allied to the balance you require don't forget attach the hooks, rings and trace wire you will be using, then attach the lead with a bit of BluTac or even chewing gum.

Best way to get lead is when you see a roofer working simply go and ask for some of his lead flashing off-cuts. Flashing is the word they use in the trade. Dont forget lead is recyclable so has value but the price of a pint will get you a lifetimes supply. Its only a few mm thick so you can cut it with an old pair of scissors.
Lead flashing is also ideal for making bouncing bettys and feeder weights if you've a mind :grin:

.
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Re: Weighting lures

Post by old_school »

Drill and fill or if you not into that, a strip of lead off a feeder will do. Seriously, the pike aren’t that bothered what you weight them with!
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Re: Weighting lures

Post by Steve Dennington »

Mike J wrote: Sun Dec 03 2023 12:30 -
I dislike rattles and open up Burts to remove the the lead shot inside.
The pike often seem to disagree there, Mike. I put rattles into some of the wooden baits I make for that reason. Not all of them, but I think it pays to have the option of a noisy rattle in the lure box and not just for murky water.

Out of curiosity, how have you removed the Burt weights? I have removed some recently, but only because the poxy things sank when they should have floated :no: I just drilled the back to remove the over-ballast, but the lead balls are quite big (10mm-ish), so they leave a fair size hole to patch up. The trick is knowing where the chambers are.
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Re: Weighting lures

Post by davelumb »

Mike J wrote: Sun Dec 03 2023 12:30 -
tomgrim wrote: Sat Dec 02 2023 12:30 -
I have a squirrely burt that I'm wanting to add weight to. Where do you get the lead strips from that you can use. Do DIY shops have this available. I know I can get some off ebay but I'll have to wait for a week or 2 for that

I dislike rattles and open up Burts to remove the the lead shot inside.
To rebalance some lures I used roofers lead sheet and attached the first with Araldite (pike ripped it off) then a commercial two part epoxy putty made by Fischer, its soft and easy to mould together and shape around the lumps of lead sheet I stuck to the bellies. Brilliant stuff and lasts forever, highly recommended :thumbs:

To achieve the correct position allied to the balance you require don't forget attach the hooks, rings and trace wire you will be using, then attach the lead with a bit of BluTac or even chewing gum.

Best way to get lead is when you see a roofer working simply go and ask for some of his lead flashing off-cuts. Flashing is the word they use in the trade. Dont forget lead is recyclable so has value but the price of a pint will get you a lifetimes supply. Its only a few mm thick so you can cut it with an old pair of scissors.
Lead flashing is also ideal for making bouncing bettys and feeder weights if you've a mind :grin:

.
A Dave Scarff tip for shutting up rattles:

Drill hole in cavity that contains the rattles. Syringe in epoxy. Stand lure in horizontal position. Leave to set and seal hole. Rattle stopped.

:smile:
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Re: Weighting lures

Post by Mike J »

davelumb wrote: Sun Dec 03 2023 17:27 -
Mike J wrote: Sun Dec 03 2023 12:30 -
tomgrim wrote: Sat Dec 02 2023 12:30 -
I have a squirrely burt that I'm wanting to add weight to. Where do you get the lead strips from that you can use. Do DIY shops have this available. I know I can get some off ebay but I'll have to wait for a week or 2 for that

I dislike rattles and open up Burts to remove the the lead shot inside.
To rebalance some lures I used roofers lead sheet and attached the first with Araldite (pike ripped it off) then a commercial two part epoxy putty made by Fischer, its soft and easy to mould together and shape around the lumps of lead sheet I stuck to the bellies. Brilliant stuff and lasts forever, highly recommended :thumbs:

To achieve the correct position allied to the balance you require don't forget attach the hooks, rings and trace wire you will be using, then attach the lead with a bit of BluTac or even chewing gum.

Best way to get lead is when you see a roofer working simply go and ask for some of his lead flashing off-cuts. Flashing is the word they use in the trade. Dont forget lead is recyclable so has value but the price of a pint will get you a lifetimes supply. Its only a few mm thick so you can cut it with an old pair of scissors.
Lead flashing is also ideal for making bouncing bettys and feeder weights if you've a mind :grin:

.
A Dave Scarff tip for shutting up rattles:

Drill hole in cavity that contains the rattles. Syringe in epoxy. Stand lure in horizontal position. Leave to set and seal hole. Rattle stopped.

:smile:

Yes Id thought of that and did it on one lure, flooded it superglue and saved the cost of a syringe (yes I know, tight git :madmick: )

I opened it up because I wanted to know how they were constructed, body cavities, glueing, etc. I also stripped of the cheap outside sheathing and exposed the plain white body, once reassembled I coloured it with felt tip wanterproof pens to my own (slightly mad) idea, changed the tail again to my own thoughts, and since then its proved to be my best catcher! :laughs:

.
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Re: Weighting lures

Post by Mark Phillips »

Mike J wrote: Sun Dec 03 2023 12:30 -
tomgrim wrote: Sat Dec 02 2023 12:30 -
I have a squirrely burt that I'm wanting to add weight to. Where do you get the lead strips from that you can use. Do DIY shops have this available. I know I can get some off ebay but I'll have to wait for a week or 2 for that

I dislike rattles and open up Burts to remove the the lead shot inside.
To rebalance some lures I used roofers lead sheet and attached the first with Araldite (pike ripped it off) then a commercial two part epoxy putty made by Fischer, its soft and easy to mould together and shape around the lumps of lead sheet I stuck to the bellies. Brilliant stuff and lasts forever, highly recommended :thumbs:

To achieve the correct position allied to the balance you require don't forget attach the hooks, rings and trace wire you will be using, then attach the lead with a bit of BluTac or even chewing gum.

Best way to get lead is when you see a roofer working simply go and ask for some of his lead flashing off-cuts. Flashing is the word they use in the trade. Dont forget lead is recyclable so has value but the price of a pint will get you a lifetimes supply. Its only a few mm thick so you can cut it with an old pair of scissors.
Lead flashing is also ideal for making bouncing bettys and feeder weights if you've a mind :grin:

.
The rattle is a big part of why the Burt is so effective, remove that and you're reducing your catch rate. Not smart at all.

There's no need to p**s around with Burts if you want to add weight. They take a weight on the nose without any detrimental effect on action. As always, people want to over complicate something that's very simple. Here's how I do it. Hardly rocket science, but it works.

Image
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Re: Weighting lures

Post by davelumb »

Mark Phillips wrote: Mon Dec 04 2023 18:31 -
Mike J wrote: Sun Dec 03 2023 12:30 -
tomgrim wrote: Sat Dec 02 2023 12:30 -
I have a squirrely burt that I'm wanting to add weight to. Where do you get the lead strips from that you can use. Do DIY shops have this available. I know I can get some off ebay but I'll have to wait for a week or 2 for that

I dislike rattles and open up Burts to remove the the lead shot inside.
To rebalance some lures I used roofers lead sheet and attached the first with Araldite (pike ripped it off) then a commercial two part epoxy putty made by Fischer, its soft and easy to mould together and shape around the lumps of lead sheet I stuck to the bellies. Brilliant stuff and lasts forever, highly recommended :thumbs:

To achieve the correct position allied to the balance you require don't forget attach the hooks, rings and trace wire you will be using, then attach the lead with a bit of BluTac or even chewing gum.

Best way to get lead is when you see a roofer working simply go and ask for some of his lead flashing off-cuts. Flashing is the word they use in the trade. Dont forget lead is recyclable so has value but the price of a pint will get you a lifetimes supply. Its only a few mm thick so you can cut it with an old pair of scissors.
Lead flashing is also ideal for making bouncing bettys and feeder weights if you've a mind :grin:

.
The rattle is a big part of why the Burt is so effective, remove that and you're reducing your catch rate. Not smart at all.

There's no need to p**s around with Burts if you want to add weight. They take a weight on the nose without any detrimental effect on action. As always, people want to over complicate something that's very simple. Here's how I do it. Hardly rocket science, but it works.

Image
I can't see the rattles making much noise when you're trolling a Burt.

Adding shot internally allows you to fine tune sink rate, and the angle the lure sinks or works at.
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Re: Weighting lures

Post by Mark Phillips »

davelumb wrote: Mon Dec 04 2023 19:17 -
Mark Phillips wrote: Mon Dec 04 2023 18:31 -
Mike J wrote: Sun Dec 03 2023 12:30 -
tomgrim wrote: Sat Dec 02 2023 12:30 -
I have a squirrely burt that I'm wanting to add weight to. Where do you get the lead strips from that you can use. Do DIY shops have this available. I know I can get some off ebay but I'll have to wait for a week or 2 for that

I dislike rattles and open up Burts to remove the the lead shot inside.
To rebalance some lures I used roofers lead sheet and attached the first with Araldite (pike ripped it off) then a commercial two part epoxy putty made by Fischer, its soft and easy to mould together and shape around the lumps of lead sheet I stuck to the bellies. Brilliant stuff and lasts forever, highly recommended :thumbs:

To achieve the correct position allied to the balance you require don't forget attach the hooks, rings and trace wire you will be using, then attach the lead with a bit of BluTac or even chewing gum.

Best way to get lead is when you see a roofer working simply go and ask for some of his lead flashing off-cuts. Flashing is the word they use in the trade. Dont forget lead is recyclable so has value but the price of a pint will get you a lifetimes supply. Its only a few mm thick so you can cut it with an old pair of scissors.
Lead flashing is also ideal for making bouncing bettys and feeder weights if you've a mind :grin:

.
The rattle is a big part of why the Burt is so effective, remove that and you're reducing your catch rate. Not smart at all.

There's no need to p**s around with Burts if you want to add weight. They take a weight on the nose without any detrimental effect on action. As always, people want to over complicate something that's very simple. Here's how I do it. Hardly rocket science, but it works.

Image
I can't see the rattles making much noise when you're trolling a Burt.

Adding shot internally allows you to fine tune sink rate, and the angle the lure sinks or works at.
Never trolled a Burt in my life Dave and don't think I ever will. I have weighted the odd one as you describe, but found after time, just adding a sinker to the front achieved what I wanted, i.e. to fish them deeper.
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Re: Weighting lures

Post by davelumb »

Mark Phillips wrote: Tue Dec 05 2023 19:57 -
davelumb wrote: Mon Dec 04 2023 19:17 -
Mark Phillips wrote: Mon Dec 04 2023 18:31 -
Mike J wrote: Sun Dec 03 2023 12:30 -
tomgrim wrote: Sat Dec 02 2023 12:30 -
I have a squirrely burt that I'm wanting to add weight to. Where do you get the lead strips from that you can use. Do DIY shops have this available. I know I can get some off ebay but I'll have to wait for a week or 2 for that

I dislike rattles and open up Burts to remove the the lead shot inside.
To rebalance some lures I used roofers lead sheet and attached the first with Araldite (pike ripped it off) then a commercial two part epoxy putty made by Fischer, its soft and easy to mould together and shape around the lumps of lead sheet I stuck to the bellies. Brilliant stuff and lasts forever, highly recommended :thumbs:

To achieve the correct position allied to the balance you require don't forget attach the hooks, rings and trace wire you will be using, then attach the lead with a bit of BluTac or even chewing gum.

Best way to get lead is when you see a roofer working simply go and ask for some of his lead flashing off-cuts. Flashing is the word they use in the trade. Dont forget lead is recyclable so has value but the price of a pint will get you a lifetimes supply. Its only a few mm thick so you can cut it with an old pair of scissors.
Lead flashing is also ideal for making bouncing bettys and feeder weights if you've a mind :grin:

.
The rattle is a big part of why the Burt is so effective, remove that and you're reducing your catch rate. Not smart at all.

There's no need to p**s around with Burts if you want to add weight. They take a weight on the nose without any detrimental effect on action. As always, people want to over complicate something that's very simple. Here's how I do it. Hardly rocket science, but it works.

Image
I can't see the rattles making much noise when you're trolling a Burt.

Adding shot internally allows you to fine tune sink rate, and the angle the lure sinks or works at.
Never trolled a Burt in my life Dave and don't think I ever will. I have weighted the odd one as you describe, but found after time, just adding a sinker to the front achieved what I wanted, i.e. to fish them deeper.
You're missing out if you don't troll Squirrelies.
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Re: Weighting lures

Post by Mark Phillips »

davelumb wrote: Tue Dec 05 2023 20:01 -
Mark Phillips wrote: Tue Dec 05 2023 19:57 -
davelumb wrote: Mon Dec 04 2023 19:17 -
Mark Phillips wrote: Mon Dec 04 2023 18:31 -
Mike J wrote: Sun Dec 03 2023 12:30 -
tomgrim wrote: Sat Dec 02 2023 12:30 -
I have a squirrely burt that I'm wanting to add weight to. Where do you get the lead strips from that you can use. Do DIY shops have this available. I know I can get some off ebay but I'll have to wait for a week or 2 for that

I dislike rattles and open up Burts to remove the the lead shot inside.
To rebalance some lures I used roofers lead sheet and attached the first with Araldite (pike ripped it off) then a commercial two part epoxy putty made by Fischer, its soft and easy to mould together and shape around the lumps of lead sheet I stuck to the bellies. Brilliant stuff and lasts forever, highly recommended :thumbs:

To achieve the correct position allied to the balance you require don't forget attach the hooks, rings and trace wire you will be using, then attach the lead with a bit of BluTac or even chewing gum.

Best way to get lead is when you see a roofer working simply go and ask for some of his lead flashing off-cuts. Flashing is the word they use in the trade. Dont forget lead is recyclable so has value but the price of a pint will get you a lifetimes supply. Its only a few mm thick so you can cut it with an old pair of scissors.
Lead flashing is also ideal for making bouncing bettys and feeder weights if you've a mind :grin:

.
The rattle is a big part of why the Burt is so effective, remove that and you're reducing your catch rate. Not smart at all.

There's no need to p**s around with Burts if you want to add weight. They take a weight on the nose without any detrimental effect on action. As always, people want to over complicate something that's very simple. Here's how I do it. Hardly rocket science, but it works.

Image
I can't see the rattles making much noise when you're trolling a Burt.

Adding shot internally allows you to fine tune sink rate, and the angle the lure sinks or works at.
Never trolled a Burt in my life Dave and don't think I ever will. I have weighted the odd one as you describe, but found after time, just adding a sinker to the front achieved what I wanted, i.e. to fish them deeper.
You're missing out if you don't troll Squirrelies.
I'll take your word for it :thumbs:
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Re: Weighting lures

Post by Steve Dennington »

Mark Phillips wrote: Mon Dec 04 2023 18:31 -
They take a weight on the nose without any detrimental effect on action. As always, people want to over complicate something that's very simple. Here's how I do it. Hardly rocket science, but it works.
Obviously it depends how you fish them, but that's definitely going to have a detrimental effect on the action if you do anything but keep them moving briskly forward. The ballast inside Burts, as with all dive/rise baits, is in the front half, but not like that! Don't get me wrong, I don't doubt that they'll catch plenty of fish like that, but what you have there is no longer really a Burt, it's pretty much a Dawg style thing, but with a hard plastic body.
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Re: Weighting lures

Post by Mark Phillips »

Steve Dennington wrote: Tue Dec 05 2023 20:27 -
Mark Phillips wrote: Mon Dec 04 2023 18:31 -
They take a weight on the nose without any detrimental effect on action. As always, people want to over complicate something that's very simple. Here's how I do it. Hardly rocket science, but it works.
Obviously it depends how you fish them, but that's definitely going to have a detrimental effect on the action if you do anything but keep them moving briskly forward. The ballast inside Burts, as with all dive/rise baits, is in the front half, but not like that! Don't get me wrong, I don't doubt that they'll catch plenty of fish like that, but what you have there is no longer really a Burt, it's pretty much a Dawg style thing, but with a hard plastic body.
Yes you are right, it does depend on how you fish them, but it doesn't kill the action as you wrongly suggest; let me explain - if you work them right and don't overdo the amount of weight added, you still have a very effective pull bait. I've had quite a few trout water 20's with Burts weighted like that over the years, usually I add 5 or 10g, occasionally 15g and very rarely 20g. Anymore and OK, yes, you're starting to kill them. Deeper water is more dense than shallow, so that does help as well. Typically, I add 5g for every 10ft deeper I want to fish over the normal working depth of a (good) weighted Burt. I say good, as some work deeper than others, even suspending at certain depths. I've sold quite a few in my time, only keeping the better ones.
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Re: Weighting lures

Post by andrew_nagel »

Mark - Do you not find that it tips over with a loose weight that can fall to one side as the lure slows down or you pause it? Internal weights are confined so to fall to the lowest point and give stability.
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Re: Weighting lures

Post by Steve Dennington »

Mark Phillips wrote: Wed Dec 06 2023 20:52 -
Yes you are right, it does depend on how you fish them, but it doesn't kill the action as you wrongly suggest; let me explain - if you work them right and don't overdo the amount of weight added, you still have a very effective pull bait. I've had quite a few trout water 20's with Burts weighted like that over the years, usually I add 5 or 10g, occasionally 15g and very rarely 20g. Anymore and OK, yes, you're starting to kill them. Deeper water is more dense than shallow, so that does help as well. Typically, I add 5g for every 10ft deeper I want to fish over the normal working depth of a (good) weighted Burt. I say good, as some work deeper than others, even suspending at certain depths. I've sold quite a few in my time, only keeping the better ones.
You miss my point, Mark. You may retain an action that will catch fish plenty of fish, but you can't just whack a lump of lead on the nose above the centre line and retain the Burt action, as it was designed to be (even though an annoying percentage, straight out of the packet, don't behave as they were designed to anyway). Your modification, regardless of how effective it might be at putting fish in the boat, will inevitably change the nature of the lure.
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Re: Weighting lures

Post by Mark Phillips »

Steve Dennington wrote: Wed Dec 06 2023 21:25 -
Mark Phillips wrote: Wed Dec 06 2023 20:52 -
Yes you are right, it does depend on how you fish them, but it doesn't kill the action as you wrongly suggest; let me explain - if you work them right and don't overdo the amount of weight added, you still have a very effective pull bait. I've had quite a few trout water 20's with Burts weighted like that over the years, usually I add 5 or 10g, occasionally 15g and very rarely 20g. Anymore and OK, yes, you're starting to kill them. Deeper water is more dense than shallow, so that does help as well. Typically, I add 5g for every 10ft deeper I want to fish over the normal working depth of a (good) weighted Burt. I say good, as some work deeper than others, even suspending at certain depths. I've sold quite a few in my time, only keeping the better ones.
You miss my point, Mark. You may retain an action that will catch fish plenty of fish, but you can't just whack a lump of lead on the nose above the centre line and retain the Burt action, as it was designed to be (even though an annoying percentage, straight out of the packet, don't behave as they were designed to anyway). Your modification, regardless of how effective it might be at putting fish in the boat, will inevitably change the nature of the lure.
I'm not missing anything. I think we'll agree to disagree on this one. Adding a few grams to the front of a Burt doesn't change significantly alter the action - if you can call it that, we are talking about a pull bait. Have you tried it? I'll concede on some lures, yes, doing this will present issues, but not with Burts, well unless you stick too much weight on. I've been doing this for 20 years plus, albeit I would use small bullet leads before using Fastach or Cheb weights with clips. Most of the time I only need add 10g to get them down to 15ft and stay there. At the end of the day, I catch pike with them weighted this way, that's all that really matters. Cheers.
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Re: Weighting lures

Post by Dave R »

Mark, I’m interested in what brand of Cheb weight you use? I think you posted a pic of a Miuras Mouse weighted with a cheb. I’ve always found Cheb weights quite fiddly and flimsy; clearly there must be better versions if you’re using them to attach £40 lures! I’ve always struggled with Burts, bit of a bogey lure, but I will persevere.
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Re: Weighting lures

Post by Adam F »

I do the same Mark - albeit mine are probably more crude in appearance. It doesn’t bother me too much, so long as they catch.
I add lead flashing under the nose so they suspend nose down in the water. As you’ve touched on in the past, every burt behaves differently out of the packet so I’ve always found it trial and error. Once I’m happy, I just epoxy over the lead to hold in in position. Had a few 30’s on them over the years :thumbs:

I’ve added some significant weight in the past to get them down to 20ft + and although it affects the action - they still catch. As you say, the rattles im certain are the key and certainly seem to move big fish at the right time of year.

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Mark Phillips wrote: Wed Dec 06 2023 20:52 -
Steve Dennington wrote: Tue Dec 05 2023 20:27 -
Mark Phillips wrote: Mon Dec 04 2023 18:31 -
They take a weight on the nose without any detrimental effect on action. As always, people want to over complicate something that's very simple. Here's how I do it. Hardly rocket science, but it works.
Obviously it depends how you fish them, but that's definitely going to have a detrimental effect on the action if you do anything but keep them moving briskly forward. The ballast inside Burts, as with all dive/rise baits, is in the front half, but not like that! Don't get me wrong, I don't doubt that they'll catch plenty of fish like that, but what you have there is no longer really a Burt, it's pretty much a Dawg style thing, but with a hard plastic body.
Yes you are right, it does depend on how you fish them, but it doesn't kill the action as you wrongly suggest; let me explain - if you work them right and don't overdo the amount of weight added, you still have a very effective pull bait. I've had quite a few trout water 20's with Burts weighted like that over the years, usually I add 5 or 10g, occasionally 15g and very rarely 20g. Anymore and OK, yes, you're starting to kill them. Deeper water is more dense than shallow, so that does help as well. Typically, I add 5g for every 10ft deeper I want to fish over the normal working depth of a (good) weighted Burt. I say good, as some work deeper than others, even suspending at certain depths. I've sold quite a few in my time, only keeping the better ones.
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Re: Weighting lures

Post by Mark Phillips »

Dave R wrote: Tue Dec 12 2023 14:36 -
Mark, I’m interested in what brand of Cheb weight you use? I think you posted a pic of a Miuras Mouse weighted with a cheb. I’ve always found Cheb weights quite fiddly and flimsy; clearly there must be better versions if you’re using them to attach £40 lures! I’ve always struggled with Burts, bit of a bogey lure, but I will persevere.
Pikecraft in Germany. There were a couple of UK retailers selling their gear, but one seems to have stopped and the other has no stock. Best bet to order direct. Very expensive end tackle, but is also very high quality.
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Re: Weighting lures

Post by Mark Phillips »

Adam F wrote: Tue Dec 12 2023 16:28 -
I do the same Mark - albeit mine are probably more crude in appearance. It doesn’t bother me too much, so long as they catch.
I add lead flashing under the nose so they suspend nose down in the water. As you’ve touched on in the past, every burt behaves differently out of the packet so I’ve always found it trial and error. Once I’m happy, I just epoxy over the lead to hold in in position. Had a few 30’s on them over the years :thumbs:

I’ve added some significant weight in the past to get them down to 20ft + and although it affects the action - they still catch. As you say, the rattles im certain are the key and certainly seem to move big fish at the right time of year.

Image

Mark Phillips wrote: Wed Dec 06 2023 20:52 -
Steve Dennington wrote: Tue Dec 05 2023 20:27 -
Mark Phillips wrote: Mon Dec 04 2023 18:31 -
They take a weight on the nose without any detrimental effect on action. As always, people want to over complicate something that's very simple. Here's how I do it. Hardly rocket science, but it works.
Obviously it depends how you fish them, but that's definitely going to have a detrimental effect on the action if you do anything but keep them moving briskly forward. The ballast inside Burts, as with all dive/rise baits, is in the front half, but not like that! Don't get me wrong, I don't doubt that they'll catch plenty of fish like that, but what you have there is no longer really a Burt, it's pretty much a Dawg style thing, but with a hard plastic body.
Yes you are right, it does depend on how you fish them, but it doesn't kill the action as you wrongly suggest; let me explain - if you work them right and don't overdo the amount of weight added, you still have a very effective pull bait. I've had quite a few trout water 20's with Burts weighted like that over the years, usually I add 5 or 10g, occasionally 15g and very rarely 20g. Anymore and OK, yes, you're starting to kill them. Deeper water is more dense than shallow, so that does help as well. Typically, I add 5g for every 10ft deeper I want to fish over the normal working depth of a (good) weighted Burt. I say good, as some work deeper than others, even suspending at certain depths. I've sold quite a few in my time, only keeping the better ones.
Cheers Adam. You're spot on with that. I also think the profile of a Burt is appealing to bigger pike. Back in the day, I was using a drilled bullet with a bit of piano wire bent double through the central hole - then fixing that onto the first split ring next to the hook. Looked pretty awful, but got them deeper and I hardly ever used anything over about 1/2 ounce or 14g.
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Re: Weighting lures

Post by Dave R »

Mark Phillips wrote: Tue Dec 12 2023 20:56 -
Dave R wrote: Tue Dec 12 2023 14:36 -
Mark, I’m interested in what brand of Cheb weight you use? I think you posted a pic of a Miuras Mouse weighted with a cheb. I’ve always found Cheb weights quite fiddly and flimsy; clearly there must be better versions if you’re using them to attach £40 lures! I’ve always struggled with Burts, bit of a bogey lure, but I will persevere.
Pikecraft in Germany. There were a couple of UK retailers selling their gear, but one seems to have stopped and the other has no stock. Best bet to order direct. Very expensive end tackle, but is also very high quality.
Thanks Mark, I’ll check them out. It just occured to me that a Savage Gear clip-on “Balls” weight on the front hook hanger may do the same job. “Balls” come in 5g and 10g, etc. I just tried this and the weight sits neatly close to the lure body when clipped behind the split ring/hook.

You prefer the weighted/rattling Burts and Squirrlies. I have a couple of unweighted/silent Squirrlies. Any tips with these? Reserve for shallow water, or drill and add rattles I guess.
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Re: Weighting lures

Post by Mark Phillips »

Dave R wrote: Tue Dec 12 2023 22:11 -
Mark Phillips wrote: Tue Dec 12 2023 20:56 -
Dave R wrote: Tue Dec 12 2023 14:36 -
Mark, I’m interested in what brand of Cheb weight you use? I think you posted a pic of a Miuras Mouse weighted with a cheb. I’ve always found Cheb weights quite fiddly and flimsy; clearly there must be better versions if you’re using them to attach £40 lures! I’ve always struggled with Burts, bit of a bogey lure, but I will persevere.
Pikecraft in Germany. There were a couple of UK retailers selling their gear, but one seems to have stopped and the other has no stock. Best bet to order direct. Very expensive end tackle, but is also very high quality.
Thanks Mark, I’ll check them out. It just occured to me that a Savage Gear clip-on “Balls” weight on the front hook hanger may do the same job. “Balls” come in 5g and 10g, etc. I just tried this and the weight sits neatly close to the lure body when clipped behind the split ring/hook.

You prefer the weighted/rattling Burts and Squirrlies. I have a couple of unweighted/silent Squirrlies. Any tips with these? Reserve for shallow water, or drill and add rattles I guess.
You're very welcome Sir. Good kit from Pikecraft, but as I said, it's a bit pricey. I just remembered that Fishing Tackle & Bait stock a few of their bits, could worth giving them a nudge. Their hook pins for pelagic baits are really great - I just made a few up now it's getting to that time of year when the jiggery pokery can flush out a big girl.

I'm in the minority, but prefer a straight Burt to a Squirely. All mine are weighted and I sold the unweighted and the other 'duds' off, well that's a bit unfair, but as Adam has said, they do vary. For fishing shallow with a pull or dive/rise type lure, I'd take an 8" Sandcat over a Burt. I don't think rattles matter so much in shallow water, but fishing shallow over deeper water any extra noise will do no harm.

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Re: Weighting lures

Post by Adam F »

Absolutely mate; it doesn’t matter what it looks like; so long as the lures get down to where the pike want it then that’s all good with me :thumbs:

Mark Phillips wrote: Tue Dec 12 2023 21:00 -
Adam F wrote: Tue Dec 12 2023 16:28 -
I do the same Mark - albeit mine are probably more crude in appearance. It doesn’t bother me too much, so long as they catch.
I add lead flashing under the nose so they suspend nose down in the water. As you’ve touched on in the past, every burt behaves differently out of the packet so I’ve always found it trial and error. Once I’m happy, I just epoxy over the lead to hold in in position. Had a few 30’s on them over the years :thumbs:

I’ve added some significant weight in the past to get them down to 20ft + and although it affects the action - they still catch. As you say, the rattles im certain are the key and certainly seem to move big fish at the right time of year.

Image

Mark Phillips wrote: Wed Dec 06 2023 20:52 -
Steve Dennington wrote: Tue Dec 05 2023 20:27 -
Mark Phillips wrote: Mon Dec 04 2023 18:31 -
They take a weight on the nose without any detrimental effect on action. As always, people want to over complicate something that's very simple. Here's how I do it. Hardly rocket science, but it works.
Obviously it depends how you fish them, but that's definitely going to have a detrimental effect on the action if you do anything but keep them moving briskly forward. The ballast inside Burts, as with all dive/rise baits, is in the front half, but not like that! Don't get me wrong, I don't doubt that they'll catch plenty of fish like that, but what you have there is no longer really a Burt, it's pretty much a Dawg style thing, but with a hard plastic body.
Yes you are right, it does depend on how you fish them, but it doesn't kill the action as you wrongly suggest; let me explain - if you work them right and don't overdo the amount of weight added, you still have a very effective pull bait. I've had quite a few trout water 20's with Burts weighted like that over the years, usually I add 5 or 10g, occasionally 15g and very rarely 20g. Anymore and OK, yes, you're starting to kill them. Deeper water is more dense than shallow, so that does help as well. Typically, I add 5g for every 10ft deeper I want to fish over the normal working depth of a (good) weighted Burt. I say good, as some work deeper than others, even suspending at certain depths. I've sold quite a few in my time, only keeping the better ones.
Cheers Adam. You're spot on with that. I also think the profile of a Burt is appealing to bigger pike. Back in the day, I was using a drilled bullet with a bit of piano wire bent double through the central hole - then fixing that onto the first split ring next to the hook. Looked pretty awful, but got them deeper and I hardly ever used anything over about 1/2 ounce or 14g.
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Re: Weighting lures

Post by Adam F »

Those Monster Slugs can be lethal when the temps drop. Very subtle action :thumbs:
Mark Phillips wrote: Wed Dec 13 2023 00:13 -
Dave R wrote: Tue Dec 12 2023 22:11 -
Mark Phillips wrote: Tue Dec 12 2023 20:56 -
Dave R wrote: Tue Dec 12 2023 14:36 -
Mark, I’m interested in what brand of Cheb weight you use? I think you posted a pic of a Miuras Mouse weighted with a cheb. I’ve always found Cheb weights quite fiddly and flimsy; clearly there must be better versions if you’re using them to attach £40 lures! I’ve always struggled with Burts, bit of a bogey lure, but I will persevere.
Pikecraft in Germany. There were a couple of UK retailers selling their gear, but one seems to have stopped and the other has no stock. Best bet to order direct. Very expensive end tackle, but is also very high quality.
Thanks Mark, I’ll check them out. It just occured to me that a Savage Gear clip-on “Balls” weight on the front hook hanger may do the same job. “Balls” come in 5g and 10g, etc. I just tried this and the weight sits neatly close to the lure body when clipped behind the split ring/hook.

You prefer the weighted/rattling Burts and Squirrlies. I have a couple of unweighted/silent Squirrlies. Any tips with these? Reserve for shallow water, or drill and add rattles I guess.
You're very welcome Sir. Good kit from Pikecraft, but as I said, it's a bit pricey. I just remembered that Fishing Tackle & Bait stock a few of their bits, could worth giving them a nudge. Their hook pins for pelagic baits are really great - I just made a few up now it's getting to that time of year when the jiggery pokery can flush out a big girl.

I'm in the minority, but prefer a straight Burt to a Squirely. All mine are weighted and I sold the unweighted and the other 'duds' off, well that's a bit unfair, but as Adam has said, they do vary. For fishing shallow with a pull or dive/rise type lure, I'd take an 8" Sandcat over a Burt. I don't think rattles matter so much in shallow water, but fishing shallow over deeper water any extra noise will do no harm.

Image
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