Float paints and lacquer

[Cyprio]

After reading this thread going to give it a go at making my own over the next few weeks. Got my carbon rods and sheets paint and poly eggs.
Then today removed the motor from a microwave and made a rotary drier. (Bonus this MW had two motors so have a spare),
I used an old Dell monitor stand, added benefit is its adjustable up and down and the drier tilts.
The motor is mounted to wooden battens then faced with thin ply.
Taking the innards out of an adjustable roller catch (pic 1)I glued it to the motor spindle, this made a perfect
attachment for The piece of loft insulation I then bolted to it, so I can mount the floats securely. ( this has the added benefit, I can replace it when required).
Now going to attach a cardboard surround to collects the paint spray then ready for production.

CAUTION REF MOTORS
They are AC 240 volt motors. I ran mine with earth to housing. Positive and Neutral to motor connections.
DONT SPIN MOTOR BY HAND AND TOUCH WIRES IT WILL HURT
They can produce very high voltage instantly when turned by fingers!

Looking forward to doing this. hopefully will only need the MK1 version.

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Andy

[Mike J]

Hi Cypro
Does your micro motor reverse itself or does it run one way only?

Ive used micro motors for rod drying and the only time mine have self-reversed is when Ive accidentally bumped them.
Normally I reverse the direction by altering the rubber band drive belt.

My motors have never been a (live) problem.

[Cyprio]

Hi Mike

The motor won't self reverse unless you turn the power on and off the same as if it was in normal use in the microwave and you stop and restart the microwave oven. Needs a pause before turning back on.

Ref (live) problem:
These motors have a very efficient winding which makes them a very good voltage generator.
For their size!
Didn't say it had a problem just advised you don't rotate it by hand whilst holding the connections,
Put a volt meter on it and see for yourself.
Trust me you might as well put your fingers in a wall socket (please don't try that)
I did confirm it it's much much worse than putting your tongue on both terminals of a 9v battery

But good results so far with the epoxy glue (no sagging) so thanks for the idea

Andy

[Bob Watson]

Easily the cheapest pike floats are those made from the stems of reed mace aka bull rushes.
I only use the stems with the seed heads, cut in the Autumn before the swans start eating them.
Just peel off the outer layer and leave everything including the seed heads on the bank.
Next I store them in my shed for a year before cutting into 6-8" lengths to lay them ontop of a radiator for a week.
Trim to size, smooth off and a single coat of warmed yacht varnish and thats it.
Prepped as above I have carried them throughout a season in my bag without any detriment to the buoyancy.

To use; attach them top and bottom using a couple of small 1" rubber bands doubled over, this enables quick changes and for it to be easily detached if the fish swims through a snag or weeds.
Reed stems are very buoyant, a 6" x 1/2" dia length will easily support a bait of 4/5" plus weights.
Best of all they are natural and blend in with the surroundings so cannot alarm fish or attract the attention of nosey anglers to how your fishing. If I paint them at all I use yellow touch up with a black felt tip cap.

Cheapest Drifter Stems
I use aluminium knitting needles, they weigh nothing, are nigh on indestructible and can be picked up in bundles for a few pence in charity shops.

For trotting floats
I use cormorant quills utterly waterproof and can be bent always without damage, bodies from blue insulation foam reinforced with yacht varnish, tips painted with girlie nail lacquer, dont paint the body - the skys blue!!

For a rotary dryer
Just salvage the table motor from a redundant microwave, they always work, just remember to leave the spade-end connectors on the wires.

Just a bit of a nit pick Mike,

Reed Mace and Bull Rush are two different plants

[Wat Tyler]

For a rotary dryer
Just salvage the table motor from a redundant microwave, they always work, just remember to leave the spade-end connectors on the wires.

That's interesting Mike, could you post a picture of how you have rigged it up.

If you're looking for a cheap drier Duncan check out 'disco ball' motors on E-bay. Mine runs at 1rpm which is about perfect for Envirotex etc.

This is the type I have: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-HANGING- ... xy3zNSpnOq

[SheffSean]

I was going to use one half of a kinder 'egg' to add a top on cork, but they've change the design into something unusable. :cry


Check out eBay, I've just bought some plastic eggs to refurb my drop arms, if you want, I'll let you know what they're like when they arrive, just type in "plastic Easter eggs" in the search bar, HTH.

Sean.

[Nige Johns]

I was going to use one half of a kinder 'egg' to add a top on cork, but they've change the design into something unusable. :cry


Check out eBay, I've just bought some plastic eggs to refurb my drop arms, if you want, I'll let you know what they're like when they arrive, just type in "plastic Easter eggs" in the search bar, HTH.

Sean.

Good shout Sean,they look the business,could even fill them with expanding foam to add a little weight and help glue things into them

[SheffSean]

Sorry for the late reply mate. for extra weight im going to add some hard set glue to secure the run clips in place and to add some weight, the good thing about the plastic eggs is the cheapness of them,

Sean.

[Cyprio]

Finished my first attempt, nobody posted the pitfalls but I think I came across them all from silicon to masking tape glue residue
I had a few set backs but only replaced one poly egg when the primer melted a crater that went through a fish eye in the epoxy..

All carbon stems, and carbon vanes on the drifters.

image.jpeg

Hopefully they look as good going under as they do floating

Andy

[Duncan Holmes]

Finished my first attempt, nobody posted the pitfalls but I think I came across them all from silicon to masking tape glue residue
I had a few set backs but only replaced one poly egg when the primer melted a crater that went through a fish eye in the epoxy..

All carbon stems, and carbon vanes on the drifters.

image.jpeg

Hopefully they look as good going under as they do floating

Andy

Looks like I no longer have the smartest floats in Norfolk

[Cyprio]

Finished my first attempt, nobody posted the pitfalls but I think I came across them all from silicon to masking tape glue residue
I had a few set backs but only replaced one poly egg when the primer melted a crater that went through a fish eye in the epoxy..

All carbon stems, and carbon vanes on the drifters.

image.jpeg

Hopefully they look as good going under as they do floating

Andy

Looks like I no longer have the smartest floats in Norfolk

thanks D.
Yours will take some beating

[Bob Watson]

I've just come across a substance called "strontium aluminate", which is a glow in the dark pigment/powder that can be mixed with any liquid to produce a glow in the dark paint.

Mix into epoxy, clear nail varnish etc and paint floats, rod tips etc, charge it with a UV torch. It comes in a load of colours and the possibilities are endless.

I've just ordered some from ebay to try to enhance a bottle of Gardner luminous line marker (s**t) that I bought and consigned to the s***e drawer. If I knew about this stuff beforehand I'd have made my own from scratch.

These are the type of products tackle companies don't want you knowing about!

[davelumb]

The Yanks have had glow powders to add to varnish/paint for fishing tackle for years.

http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/soft-plast ... 09400.aspx

http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/fishing-lu ... 09405.aspx

[Bob Watson]

The Yanks have had glow powders to add to varnish/paint for fishing tackle for years.

http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/soft-plast ... 09400.aspx

http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/fishing-lu ... 09405.aspx

I never came across it before Dave. Apparently, according to my source, strontium aluminate is quite recent (perhaps for this application) and more luminous.

[davelumb]

The Yanks have had glow powders to add to varnish/paint for fishing tackle for years.

http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/soft-plast ... 09400.aspx

http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/fishing-lu ... 09405.aspx

I never came across it before Dave. Apparently, according to my source, strontium aluminate is quite recent (perhaps for this application) and more luminous.

The second link I posted is newish and possibly the strontium aluminate stuff judging by the colours. Be interesting to see if it's as good as it's cracked up to be.

[Bob Watson]

The Yanks have had glow powders to add to varnish/paint for fishing tackle for years.

http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/soft-plast ... 09400.aspx

http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/fishing-lu ... 09405.aspx

I never came across it before Dave. Apparently, according to my source, strontium aluminate is quite recent (perhaps for this application) and more luminous.

The second link I posted is newish and possibly the strontium aluminate stuff judging by the colours. Be interesting to see if it's as good as it's cracked up to be.

Sounds like it could be, they probably don't want to name it fro reasons I suggested in my OP???

I'll let you know when it arrives!

[Mike J]

Sorry guys I didnt know you were looking for luminous paints.

Ive been using Stron Alu for years, got it from South Africa I think.

Amongst various uses Ive used it on metsl jigs, trolled lures and for squidding, also on sea trout flies. Last used it for a quiver tip.

Mix a tiny dab with nail varnish for speed or rod epoxy for durability.
Dont buy anything but green, its far superior to all the other colours.
Any light scource will charge it so dont spend £s on UVs, and lasts around 20min (from memory)

[MarkBerrisford]

I tried the luminous paint a few years ago and it was disappointing to say the least, in fact the float I tried it on is still hanging in the garden 5 years later!

[John Milford]

Thanks...

well...I tried the acrylic lacquer, and it blistered the paint. I am using enamel paint, and just wanted to add the lacquer as a bit more protection. I suppose the enamel paint on it own would ok though.

Has anyone got any ideas what would be a suitable lacquer to use?

Steve

Have you tried clear enamel as the top coat Steve?

It is completely compatible with enamel paint - as it's basically the same stuff, minus pigment.

I use both matt and gloss and the result is very hardwearing - certainly well up to float and plug purposes. If feel there is a tendency theses days to try and make stuff 'bomb proof' beyond practical requirements.

This is a 'retro' pike float I did recently. Undercoat, gloss colours and finished off with a matt and localised gloss enamel. I've put in some 'aging' and small imperfections on this one for authenticity, but other types I've done 'straight' have stood up very well to use.

[steve a pac]

Finished my first attempt, nobody posted the pitfalls but I think I came across them all from silicon to masking tape glue residue
I had a few set backs but only replaced one poly egg when the primer melted a crater that went through a fish eye in the epoxy..

All carbon stems, and carbon vanes on the drifters.

image.jpeg

Hopefully they look as good going under as they do floating

Andy

That there are some fine looking floats well done

[Shiv]

I make or modify ALL all my own pike floats as I have never been able to find any in the shops that I like.

Inline balls, 40mm polyballs from Hobbycraft

Unloaded Pencils, balsa

Unloaded Wedge pencils , balsa

Inline's turned from blue foam, or refinished sea floats

Drifters are polyeggs from hobby craft with ET or Fox stems.

I use Jaime's lathe for turning the shapes, but you can do it with a drill and sandpaper.

Whatever the material, a thin coat of epoxy before painting means you can use any paint you like without worrying about reaction, and you have a nice flat surface to paint, which will make the colour brighter. The extra coat of epoxy does tend to toughen them up a bit.

I now use enamel spray paints, as the build of colour is quicker and I don't need to flatten between coats.

Trim tape from model shop gives a nice white line (if that's your thing) and saves farting about with masking tape.

I purchased a fly dryer for £15, which means the epoxy finishes in a smooth even surface.

Single coat of epoxy after painting and they last ages.

20161202_190601.jpg

The floats look brilliant mate,

[Duncan Holmes]

I make or modify ALL all my own pike floats as I have never been able to find any in the shops that I like.

Inline balls, 40mm polyballs from Hobbycraft

Unloaded Pencils, balsa

Unloaded Wedge pencils , balsa

Inline's turned from blue foam, or refinished sea floats

Drifters are polyeggs from hobby craft with ET or Fox stems.

I use Jaime's lathe for turning the shapes, but you can do it with a drill and sandpaper.

Whatever the material, a thin coat of epoxy before painting means you can use any paint you like without worrying about reaction, and you have a nice flat surface to paint, which will make the colour brighter. The extra coat of epoxy does tend to toughen them up a bit.

I now use enamel spray paints, as the build of colour is quicker and I don't need to flatten between coats.

Trim tape from model shop gives a nice white line (if that's your thing) and saves farting about with masking tape.

I purchased a fly dryer for £15, which means the epoxy finishes in a smooth even surface.

Single coat of epoxy after painting and they last ages.

20161202_190601.jpg

The floats look brilliant mate,

Thanks, have just been making up some perch free roving floats. Recently changed to using airbrush instead of spray cans and impressed with results.

[Shiv]

I make or modify ALL all my own pike floats as I have never been able to find any in the shops that I like.

Inline balls, 40mm polyballs from Hobbycraft

Unloaded Pencils, balsa

Unloaded Wedge pencils , balsa

Inline's turned from blue foam, or refinished sea floats

Drifters are polyeggs from hobby craft with ET or Fox stems.

I use Jaime's lathe for turning the shapes, but you can do it with a drill and sandpaper.

Whatever the material, a thin coat of epoxy before painting means you can use any paint you like without worrying about reaction, and you have a nice flat surface to paint, which will make the colour brighter. The extra coat of epoxy does tend to toughen them up a bit.

I now use enamel spray paints, as the build of colour is quicker and I don't need to flatten between coats.

Trim tape from model shop gives a nice white line (if that's your thing) and saves farting about with masking tape.

I purchased a fly dryer for £15, which means the epoxy finishes in a smooth even surface.

Single coat of epoxy after painting and they last ages.

20161202_190601.jpg

The floats look brilliant mate,

Thanks, have just been making up some perch free roving floats. Recently changed to using airbrush instead of spray cans and impressed with results.

Spray cans are ok, but your absolutely right, Airbrushing is much better, are you using Acrylics.

[Duncan Holmes]

I make or modify ALL all my own pike floats as I have never been able to find any in the shops that I like.

Inline balls, 40mm polyballs from Hobbycraft

Unloaded Pencils, balsa

Unloaded Wedge pencils , balsa

Inline's turned from blue foam, or refinished sea floats

Drifters are polyeggs from hobby craft with ET or Fox stems.

I use Jaime's lathe for turning the shapes, but you can do it with a drill and sandpaper.

Whatever the material, a thin coat of epoxy before painting means you can use any paint you like without worrying about reaction, and you have a nice flat surface to paint, which will make the colour brighter. The extra coat of epoxy does tend to toughen them up a bit.

I now use enamel spray paints, as the build of colour is quicker and I don't need to flatten between coats.

Trim tape from model shop gives a nice white line (if that's your thing) and saves farting about with masking tape.

I purchased a fly dryer for £15, which means the epoxy finishes in a smooth even surface.

Single coat of epoxy after painting and they last ages.

20161202_190601.jpg

The floats look brilliant mate,

Thanks, have just been making up some perch free roving floats. Recently changed to using airbrush instead of spray cans and impressed with results.

Spray cans are ok, but your absolutely right, Airbrushing is much better, are you using Acrylics.

Using the Hummbrol Acrylics, amazing what a tiny amount is needed via an air brush and not having to worry about solvent fumes or overspray.

[Shiv]

For a rotary dryer
Just salvage the table motor from a redundant microwave, they always work, just remember to leave the spade-end connectors on the wires.

That's interesting Mike, could you post a picture of how you have rigged it up.

Oh come on Duncan
The red wire is the live and the black wire is the negative (I think )

An inline light switch is fitted between the motor and the plug socket and the motor is fitted to a stand using the two screw holes in the support bracket.


I actually use microwave motors for rod drying as the rpm is perfect, but thats another subject altogether.

Re; Pics.
Im happy to provide a technical discription but as for posting pics, if I cant attach it directly (as some forums allow) Im certainly not going through all the rigmarol of using a third party who could use my links for anything they wish. Sorry.

Hi Mike, could this be used to dry lures after theyve been Envirotexed,

[MarkBerrisford]

I use microwave motors on my lure Turner just keep the wheel balanced. A few floats on mine at the minute

157BA7A1-0AE5-4654-BD32-66E0A7BF4FB7.jpeg

0200F62E-6D8B-4D77-8B5D-E97E066E6BB0.jpeg

[Mike J]

For a rotary dryer
Just salvage the table motor from a redundant microwave, they always work, just remember to leave the spade-end connectors on the wires.

That's interesting Mike, could you post a picture of how you have rigged it up.

Oh come on Duncan
The red wire is the live and the black wire is the negative (I think )

An inline light switch is fitted between the motor and the plug socket and the motor is fitted to a stand using the two screw holes in the support bracket.


I actually use microwave motors for rod drying as the rpm is perfect, but thats another subject altogether.

Re; Pics.
Im happy to provide a technical discription but as for posting pics, if I cant attach it directly (as some forums allow) Im certainly not going through all the rigmarol of using a third party who could use my links for anything they wish. Sorry.

Hi Mike, could this be used to dry lures after theyve been Envirotexed,

Hi,
I posted some pics and the post seems to have vanished so here is some more.

IMG_2038.JPG

IMG_2039.JPG

This set-up is for rod drying, the metal bracket is a book end, the euro plug is because thats where I lived.
The masking tape is to grip the elastic band used to turn the blank on the rollers above.
It just needs a bit of inginuity to rig the motor for floats, flies or anything else to avoid the epoxy slumping while slow drying, eg; floats could be mounted on a spindle and turned the same way as a blank.

[Shiv]

I use microwave motors on my lure Turner just keep the wheel balanced. A few floats on mine at the minute
157BA7A1-0AE5-4654-BD32-66E0A7BF4FB7.jpeg
0200F62E-6D8B-4D77-8B5D-E97E066E6BB0.jpeg

Thanks for the info Mark and Mike, definitely food for thought when im epoxying my lures, cheers Shiv.

[Cyprio]

Thought I would have a change of colour this season.
The ones I made in 2017 have done well but have taken a few knocks on the side of the boat whilst un-hooking.
The blue and red are 70mm eggs for holding up the larger
Baits.
The smaller ones coated in metallic black with a Tamiya
Fluorescent top which really ‘pops’ in day light.

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[Happy Hayes]

Very nice
Regards
Tom