Screwing into aluminium.

[John Milford]

I plan to fit vertical bars for drop arm alarms on the aluminium clamps of my boat rod holders.

I've got some 8mm aluminium bar and P clips to attach it with, but I was wondering if I need to tap a thread for a machine screw for the P clip, or whether the metal is soft enough to put a self-tapping screw staight into after just drilling a pilot hole?

Anyone tried it?

[Andrew Croft]

I plan to fit vertical bars for drop arm alarms on the aluminium clamps of my boat rod holders.

I've got some 8mm aluminium bar and P clips to attach it with, but I was wondering if I need to tap a thread for a machine screw for the P clip, or whether the metal is soft enough to put a self-tapping screw staight into after just drilling a pilot hole?

Anyone tried it?

Used to drill a lot of self tapers in to ali, thin sheets though and 4mm steel. 8mm might need a pilot hole eh. Used to break a s**t ton of the screws

[John Milford]

I plan to fit vertical bars for drop arm alarms on the aluminium clamps of my boat rod holders.

I've got some 8mm aluminium bar and P clips to attach it with, but I was wondering if I need to tap a thread for a machine screw for the P clip, or whether the metal is soft enough to put a self-tapping screw staight into after just drilling a pilot hole?

Anyone tried it?

Used to drill a lot of self tapers in to ali, thin sheets though and 4mm steel. 8mm might need a pilot hole eh. Used to break a s**t ton of the screws

The hole won't be 8mm Croftus, that's just the diameter of the bar and size of the P clip.

I figured if I drill a pilot hole just slightly smaller than the screw thread size, a steel screw would cut its own thread?

The danger of snapping off the screw was the thing I was most concerned about!

[Andrew Croft]

I plan to fit vertical bars for drop arm alarms on the aluminium clamps of my boat rod holders.

I've got some 8mm aluminium bar and P clips to attach it with, but I was wondering if I need to tap a thread for a machine screw for the P clip, or whether the metal is soft enough to put a self-tapping screw staight into after just drilling a pilot hole?

Anyone tried it?

Used to drill a lot of self tapers in to ali, thin sheets though and 4mm steel. 8mm might need a pilot hole eh. Used to break a s**t ton of the screws

The hole won't be 8mm Croftus, that's just the diameter of the bar and size of the P clip.

I figured if I drill a pilot hole just slightly smaller than the screw thread size, a steel screw would cut its own thread?

The danger of snapping off the screw was the thing I was most concerned about!

Self tappers were a bloody nightmare. Made a nice bracket to hold my repurposed window wiper steering mechanism for my rc car last screw head comes clean of it pulled the heed of it many times

Maybe try do the last turn by hand

[Cyprio]

8mm self tapper

I would say you're be ok. Like you mentioned match the drill to the screw.
When I mounted my Scott'y bases to the Ali side of my boat I did tap a thread and fitted stainless bolts
my thoughts were it would make a stronger mount.
Depends how much metal you have to drill into. If it's not to wide use rivets

[John Milford]

8mm self tapper

I would say you're be ok. Like you mentioned match the drill to the screw.
When I mounted my Scott'y bases to the Ali side of my boat I did tap a thread and fitted stainless bolts
my thoughts were it would make a stronger mount.
Depends how much metal you have to drill into. If it's not to wide use rivets

The clamp I'm drilling into is about 10mm thick Andy I think I'll risk it.

I plan to modify three rod holders. If it doesn't work on the first one, the worst that will happen is I'll have a snapped off screw to file flush and then re-think.

[Mike J]

8mm self tapper

I would say you're be ok. Like you mentioned match the drill to the screw.
When I mounted my Scott'y bases to the Ali side of my boat I did tap a thread and fitted stainless bolts
my thoughts were it would make a stronger mount.
Depends how much metal you have to drill into. If it's not to wide use rivets

The clamp I'm drilling into is about 10mm thick Andy I think I'll risk it.

I plan to modify three rod holders. If it doesn't work on the first one, the worst that will happen is I'll have a snapped off screw to file flush and then re-think.

Do it once a do it right.
Tap a thread or drill a clearance for bolt, lock washer and nut.

.

[John Milford]

The rod holders are a set of four I purchased recently - the superb old school 'Taylor Engineering' ones, de riguer for the lads fishing W**r W**d, back in the day.

That's why my other perfectly good boat rod holders went in the 'For Sale' section - to offset my extravagant purchase! (One set still available!. ).

My regular fishing pal is a garage door engineer. He might have a set of taps to do a pukka modification.

(In case anyone is wondering, the adaptation to fit back alarms is not necessarily for boat fishing. I also plan to use the holders on the front board of some particularly tight platforms I sometimes fish from).

[spincityfan]

8mm self tapper

I would say you're be ok. Like you mentioned match the drill to the screw.
When I mounted my Scott'y bases to the Ali side of my boat I did tap a thread and fitted stainless bolts
my thoughts were it would make a stronger mount.
Depends how much metal you have to drill into. If it's not to wide use rivets

The clamp I'm drilling into is about 10mm thick Andy I think I'll risk it.

I plan to modify three rod holders. If it doesn't work on the first one, the worst that will happen is I'll have a snapped off screw to file flush and then re-think.

Do it once a do it right.
Tap a thread or drill a clearance for bolt, lock washer and nut.

.

That's what I would do too.

Self tappers can be hit and miss going into anything other than thin sheet IMO

[davelumb]

Can you not effect a 'no screws' solution using Jubilee Clips or something? Or would that offend your tackle tart's sensibilities?

[John Milford]

Can you not effect a 'no screws' solution using Jubilee Clips or something? Or would that offend your tackle tart's sensibilities?

I'm having palpitations at the very thought . . . !

[davelumb]

Can you not effect a 'no screws' solution using Jubilee Clips or something? Or would that offend your tackle tart's sensibilities?

I'm having palpitations at the very thought . . . !

You don't fancy the gaffer tape solution?

[andrew_nagel]

.

[Bucks Andy]

I plan to fit vertical bars for drop arm alarms on the aluminium clamps of my boat rod holders.

I've got some 8mm aluminium bar and P clips to attach it with, but I was wondering if I need to tap a thread for a machine screw for the P clip, or whether the metal is soft enough to put a self-tapping screw staight into after just drilling a pilot hole?

Anyone tried it?

John. What size thread are you looking to tap. I have a box full of taps and can send whatever you need.

[Kev Berry]

Can you not effect a 'no screws' solution using Jubilee Clips or something? Or would that offend your tackle tart's sensibilities?

I'm having palpitations at the very thought . . . !

You don't fancy the gaffer tape solution?

and whats wrong with electricians tape? (cheaper )

[davelumb]

Can you not effect a 'no screws' solution using Jubilee Clips or something? Or would that offend your tackle tart's sensibilities?

I'm having palpitations at the very thought . . . !

You don't fancy the gaffer tape solution?

and whats wrong with electricians tape? (cheaper )

Whichever you have to hand will do.

[John Milford]

Drilling a pilot hole and driving a steel self-tapper into it worked. I lubricated the screw with WD40 and backed it off every half turn, before driving it further in. That took a bit of patience, but it paid off.

Fixing the rubber lined metal P clip to take the 8 mm X 10 cm accessory rod was straightforward on the first two rests.

The third was a b@$t@®d and I broke two HSS drill bits and one screw on it! Sorted it in the end though.

[Pikerd74]

Drilling a pilot hole and driving a steel self-tapper into it worked. I lubricated the screw with WD40 and backed it off every half turn, before driving it further in. That took a bit of patience, but it paid off.

Fixing the rubber lined metal P clip to take the 8 mm X 10 cm accessory rod was straightforward on the first two rests.

The third was a b@$t@®d and I broke two HSS drill bits and one screw on it! Sorted it in the end though.

Keep checking them John ally and steel tend to react and corrode, stainless steel is ok though

[John Milford]

Drilling a pilot hole and driving a steel self-tapper into it worked. I lubricated the screw with WD40 and backed it off every half turn, before driving it further in. That took a bit of patience, but it paid off.

Fixing the rubber lined metal P clip to take the 8 mm X 10 cm accessory rod was straightforward on the first two rests.

The third was a b@$t@®d and I broke two HSS drill bits and one screw on it! Sorted it in the end though.

Keep checking them John ally and steel tend to react and corrode, stainless steel is ok though

That's reminded me of the Nuffield Physics I learned at school. (I must have a good memory as it was nearly fifty years ago! ).

Galvanic corrosion. Should be OK, provided there isn't a corrosive electrolyte (like water) bridging them. Like you say, worth checking and maybe inserting a smear of epoxy if there are any signs at some time in the future.

[Lukemilnes]

You can also get a self driving scrw with a bladed head called a tech screw.(wafer head) . I use em on metal framed ceilings and partitions shop fitting. They'll drive into pretty much anything, really useful little things.

Make sure you use a Philips bit not a pz otherwise you'll slip and take a chunk out your thumb!

[Pikerd74]

Drilling a pilot hole and driving a steel self-tapper into it worked. I lubricated the screw with WD40 and backed it off every half turn, before driving it further in. That took a bit of patience, but it paid off.

Fixing the rubber lined metal P clip to take the 8 mm X 10 cm accessory rod was straightforward on the first two rests.

The third was a b@$t@®d and I broke two HSS drill bits and one screw on it! Sorted it in the end though.

Keep checking them John ally and steel tend to react and corrode, stainless steel is ok though

That's reminded me of the Nuffield Physics I learned at school. (I must have a good memory as it was nearly fifty years ago! ).

Galvanic corrosion. Should be OK, provided there isn't a corrosive electrolyte (like water) bridging them. Like you say, worth checking and maybe inserting a smear of epoxy if there are any signs at some time in the future.

That’s the one John it happens on alloy wheels where that sit on a steel hub causing them to corrode and seize on ,very annoying with a flat tyre at the side of the road in winter

[Carlperkins]

A tip off the AA man
Loosen bolts and drive backwards and forwards a few yards then Jack up the car.

[Pikerd74]

A tip off the AA man
Loosen bolts and drive backwards and forwards a few yards then Jack up the car.

I have been told never to smear copper grease on your hubs if you have alloys because that can react too! It’s ok on steel wheel on the boat trailer though

[Carlperkins]